A short, expensive beach with no beach clubs left, which is exactly why people come.
- Best for
- luxury · quiet · families
- Nearest hospital
- Bangkok Hospital Phuket, about 35 min; Thalang Hospital (public) 20 min
- International schools nearby
- HeadStart International School Cherngtalay campus (15 min) · UWC Thailand (Thalang, 25 min)
The lie of the land
Surin is the smallest of the west-coast resort beaches and the most expensive per metre of sand. It sits between Kamala and Bang Tao, a short bay of pale sand backed by a strip of casuarinas and a public park, with hills at both ends. The beach clubs that made it famous in the 2000s were demolished in the 2014 beach clean-up and never came back, so what remains is the beach itself, a few restaurants across the road, and some of the island's oldest and best-known hotels on the headlands.
It suits couples and families who want a calm, clean beach without a strip, and who are happy to eat well but not late. It suits anyone who wants to be near Bang Tao's restaurants and Laguna's golf without living inside the resort complex. It is not for nightlife or for the budget end, both of which barely exist here.
Beach and sea
Surin Beach is about eight hundred metres long, and steeper than Bang Tao to the north: the sand drops fast into deep water, which makes for excellent swimming in the high season and a dumping shore-break in the wet. The water is clear, and the rocks at the southern end have snorkelling in calm weather. There are a few loungers and umbrellas from licensed vendors and a lot of open sand.
Between May and October the shore-break and rips make Surin one of the beaches where red flags are most often ignored and most often matter. The steep profile means the water is over your head within a few steps on rough days. Pansea Beach, the small cove over the northern headland shared by Amanpuri and The Surin, is sheltered and belongs in practice to the hotels.
Where to stay
Surin's hotel stock is top-heavy. Amanpuri, the first Aman anywhere, sits on the northern headland above Pansea Beach, and The Surin Phuket shares the cove. Twinpalms Phuket is a short walk from the sand on the Surin–Bang Tao road and has been the area's design-hotel anchor for two decades. Manathai Surin and a handful of boutique properties fill the three- and four-star bracket on the flat behind the beach and along Srisoonthorn Road.
Hostels do not exist here. Villas are the real Surin market: private-pool houses on the hills above the beach, along the road to Kamala and in the estates inland towards Cherngtalay. Condominiums are fewer than in Bang Tao and mostly low-rise and upmarket, on the Surin–Cherngtalay road.
Eating out
The restaurants across the beach road from the sand are a short row: Thai seafood, a couple of Italian places and cafés that open for the morning swim crowd. Behind them, Srisoonthorn Road towards Cherngtalay has the neighbourhood's better kitchens, and Cherngtalay village itself, five minutes inland, has a local market and the Thai-Muslim food that this end of the island does well.
For choice, Bang Tao's Boat Avenue and Porto de Phuket are ten minutes north with everything from ramen to steakhouses, and Kamala village is ten minutes south. Surin is where you sleep and swim; the eating is mostly done in the next bay.
Getting around
Surin is twenty-two kilometres from the airport, about thirty-five to forty minutes by taxi. The Phuket Smart Bus stops on the main road; Grab and Bolt work. The beach and the road behind it are walkable, and the Surin–Bang Tao road has a pavement for part of its length, which is rare on the island.
A scooter gets you to Kamala, Bang Tao and Laguna in ten minutes each. A car is the sensible choice if you are staying in the hills, where the villa roads are steep and the last few hundred metres are often unlit.
Staying a month or longer
Surin's monthly market is villas: three- to six-bedroom houses with pools on the hills and in the gated estates between Surin and Cherngtalay, and a smaller stock of townhouses and low-rise condominiums along the Cherngtalay road. Minimum terms of a month are standard in high season, and the better villas are booked for December and January by the previous spring.
The people who stay a season here are families with children at the Cherngtalay and Thalang schools, and couples who have outgrown the resort strips. If you are considering a month or longer, the form below reaches VillaCarte; Surin's villa stock is small, so the earlier the dates, the better the choice.
The honest downsides
Cost is the obvious one; Surin is priced with Bang Tao's top end rather than Kamala's middle. There is no budget accommodation and almost no nightlife. The beach's steep profile makes it a poor choice for small children in anything but the calmest conditions, and the wet-season shore-break is unforgiving.
Parking at the beach is limited and fills up on weekends with day-trippers from the whole west coast. The absence of beach clubs means no shade for rent beyond the vendor umbrellas, and the casuarina park behind the sand is where the afternoon crowd ends up. Surin is a beach, not a town; expect to travel for anything beyond a swim and dinner.