Longtail pier and seafood market rather than a beach; the island's biggest long-stay town.
- Best for
- long-stay · digital-nomads · budget · families
- Nearest hospital
- Dibuk Hospital (Chao Fa West Road, about 20 min); Bangkok Hospital Phuket, about 35 min
- International schools nearby
- BCIS Phuket (Chalong, 15 min) · HeadStart International School (Phuket Town side, 30 min)
The lie of the land
Rawai is where a large part of the island's foreign population actually lives, and it looks like it: a grid of sois behind the main road full of houses, gyms, cafés, kindergartens and small businesses, with a seafront that is a working longtail pier and a seafood market rather than a resort beach. The sea in front of the town is shallow and full of moored boats; the swimming beaches are ten minutes away at Nai Harn and Ya Nui. Rawai is a town first and a destination second.
It suits long-stayers of every kind: families, remote workers, Muay Thai trainees at the gyms on Soi Saiyuan and in Chalong, retirees, and anyone who wants a house with a garden rather than a room with a view. It suits short-stay visitors less, unless they have come for the boat trips or want to see the island as residents see it.
Beach and sea
Rawai Beach is a strip of sand and mud between the pier and the seafood market, lined with longtails and fishing boats and used for launching rather than swimming; at low tide it is mostly flat and the water is not clean enough to recommend. The pier is the point: longtails and speedboats leave from here for Koh Bon, Koh Lon, Coral Island (Koh Hae) and Racha, and this is the cheapest way to reach the small islands from anywhere on Phuket.
For swimming, Nai Harn is ten minutes west and Ya Nui, a small cove on the Promthep road, has snorkelling in high season. Both are west-facing and take the wet-season swell with the same red flags as the rest of the coast; Rawai's own sea, facing south-east, is sheltered in the wet season but shallow and murky. Friendship Beach, on the road towards Chalong, is a narrow strip with an expat bar and a view rather than a swim.
Where to stay
Rawai has few large hotels. The Vijitt Resort, on the Friendship Beach side, is the district's main upmarket property; Serenity Resort & Residences sits near the pier; beyond those, the stock is small hotels, guesthouses and a lot of apartments and houses. Hostels and cheap rooms are concentrated near the pier and along the main road, and cater to the Muay Thai and dive crowd.
Villas and houses are the real market: pool villas in the estates off Soi Saiyuan and the Rawai–Nai Harn road, older single-storey houses in the back sois, and townhouses inland. Condominiums have grown along the main road and towards Chalong in the last decade and supply most of the furnished one-bedroom rentals.
Eating out
The Rawai seafood market is the reason people come from the whole island: you buy fish, prawns, crab or squid by weight from the stalls on the seafront and carry it across the road to one of the restaurants that will cook it for a fee per kilo. Go at sunset, sit on the terrace and watch the longtails come in. It is not cheap by Thai-market standards but it is fresh and it is a proper evening.
Soi Saiyuan and the Rawai–Nai Harn road have the south's best cafés, bakeries and health-food kitchens, built for the gym crowd and the remote workers, plus French, Italian and Russian restaurants run by residents for residents. The main road has Thai street food, and Chalong's Soi Ta-iad, ten minutes north, is the Muay Thai strip with its own cafés.
Getting around
Rawai is forty-two kilometres from the airport, about an hour and a quarter without traffic and closer to two in the evening. The Phuket Smart Bus terminates at Rawai on its run from the airport along the west coast, which makes it the cheapest way to arrive. Grab and Bolt are plentiful because so many drivers live here; songthaews to Phuket Town leave from the main road.
The town is flat and the sois are quiet, so scooters and even bicycles work for daily errands. The main road is busy and has no pavement in stretches. Nai Harn, Chalong and Kata are ten, fifteen and twenty minutes by scooter.
Staying a month or longer
This is the island's deepest and most varied monthly market outside Bang Tao, and the more affordable of the two. Houses with gardens in the sois, pool villas in small estates off Soi Saiyuan, townhouses towards Chalong and furnished condominiums along the main road cover every budget from a single Muay Thai trainee to a family of five. Terms are flexible: a month is standard, and the wet season brings real discounts.
Who lives here: families with children at BCIS or the kindergartens in the sois, remote workers who want cafés and a gym within walking distance, retirees who have been here twenty years, and a large Russian- and French-speaking community with its own shops and services. If you are planning a month or longer, the form below goes to VillaCarte; Rawai's stock is wide, so the more you say about bedrooms, pool and walkability, the better the match.
The honest downsides
No swimming beach in front of the town is the first thing to understand; you will drive to Nai Harn. The seafront is a working pier with the smell and noise that implies, and the market restaurants overcharge on cooking fees if you do not check first. Stray dogs are part of the streetscape.
The main road is busy and the traffic through Chalong towards Phuket Town is the south's daily bottleneck. Rawai has no hospital of its own and the nearest is twenty minutes away. The town is not pretty in the way the beaches are; it is functional, and a first-time visitor who expected a resort may find it plain. Residents consider that a feature.